Fernando: My view of Glasgow

From the outset of my trip to Glasgow I was well aware of the trouble of understanding Scottish accent properly, but I had no idea of the complexity of the task I was going to undergo. When I flew into Edinburgh Airport, I took a bus to Buchanan Bus Station. The Express Coach was certainly comfortable, with a very convenient timetable (departures every 30 minutes). I sat on one of the front seats in order to have a better view of the road and also to listen to what the two bus drivers were talking about. 

To my dismay, I immediately realized that I couldn’t understand a word. I took a chance on another place so that I could focus my attention instead on three cheerful, lovely ladies in their mid-seventies sitting next to me. They were exchanging jokes with the bus drivers and having fun all the time, and funnily enough, not without a big struggle, I managed to understand this phrase: “Just in case he were to kiss me” after half an hour eavesdropping their conversation. It seemed to me that I was listening to a Germanic language and the whole situation was utterly frustrating to me as a student of English. In that precise moment I felt how much I missed the accent of our dear Chris, so clear by comparison with his fellow countrymen.  

The Royal Concert Hall

On arriving at the hotel I was scared I wouldn’t understand the language to talk about my reservation and stuff. Luckily, the guy on the reception desk had a mild accent that gave me the opportunity of grasping the explanations somehow without being committed to accepting something different from what I had booked. I was determined to do the same things I do whenever I travel, namely, apart from watching the main tourist attractions while observing the locals’ day-to-day life and, if possible, talking to them, as every tiny detail matters to me because I always learn so much just by noticing what happens around me.

Buchanan Galleries

The hotel was perfectly situated in the city centre, next to the Buchanan Bus Station, which is something really convenient as you can walk around the whole city centre. Heading down to Buchanan Street you can find, barely 400m away, the Royal Concert Hall, where the most important artistic events take place. I am not interested in shopping at all. However, my wife wanted to have a look at the famous Buchanan Galleries Shopping Centre and I must admit that it is a magnificent building where you can buy all kinds of stuff. Buchanan Street Subway and Queen Street Train Station are almost next to each other, which gives you the chance to wander around the metropolitan areas and also outside the city. 

Glasgow is a bustling city indeed, as there are a lot of people on the streets coming and going but the majority of them were locals, I mean, there were very few tourists, which is quite the opposite to what happened in Edinburgh. Truth to be told, I must confess that I had no objection to that at all. 

The City Chambers

It is not my intention to provide a full description of the history of the most representative buildings of the town. Nevertheless, to my mind there some places that are well worth visiting and all within walking distance: George Square, The City Chambers, The City Halls (a concert hall), The Cathedral and of course of the museums, in particular the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (by the way most of them are for free). 

The impressive Kelvingrove Museum

Breakfast is the most important meal for me and I always like to have a good one which gives me fuel to go through the day so I booked a room with breakfast included and fortunately it was a buffet one, with a wide variety of food. So every morning I felt energetic enough to walk across the streets, which is, in my opinion, the best way to know a town and what I did at least the two first days, until my wife, unable to follow my steady pace, refused to take part in such an adventure. Consequently, the following days we took the underground, which pleased her so much. The tube has a circular trajectory, with only two lines, inner and outer, and although it can be rather noisy and certainly old, it is doubtlessly easy to handle the itineraries. I continued eavesdropping conversations wherever I went in the hope of grasping something more of the difficult Scottish accent and whenever I could I engage myself in small chats with some local people. 

Oran Mor. A pub, can you believe it!

At this point I have to remark that the Scottish are extremely kind and helpful and I witnessed that behaviour: on every occasion I was in the middle of a street checking my map for directions someone would turn up offering useful explanations. Wherever I went I would read every lettering, banner ad, indication or recommendation in museums, train and bus stations, as well as at the airport, the subway, in churches, restaurants and so on. It is amazing how much English you can learn by simply reading the banners!

Glasgow is a city where you can find people eating at every hour of the day until 8 or 9 pm, when the restaurants and bars become half empty. (I must say that I am in favour of timetables, and it is no problem for me to have dinner early. In Spain many people have dinner at 10 or 10.30 and sometimes this can be unhealthy and certainly not practical at all.)  I like knowing the customs of the places where I go as much as possible so I ate the food that the locals tend to eat. As my wife and I wanted to meet a young man who lately we had heard of a lot, we made a reservation to have dinner in a wonderful pub. If I may, I would like to write its name, “Oran Mor”, at the top of Byres Road Street (Hillhead Subway Station). I highly recommend this place to those who want to visit Glasgow, where you can enjoy your meal while admiring a rather unusual environment.

As a regular listener of the BBC, I had to visit the headquarters of BBC Scotland on the other side of the river Clyde. It is a superb, modern building overlooking the river, which reflects its waters on the glossy windows. It is situated by The Science Museum and there was a lot of construction and activity going on where the City Council is currently transforming the area into a modern and dynamic development, highly beneficial to the image of the city. When I saw all of that, a sad thought came to mind and I said to my wife: “there is money here, a big amount of money. I wish I could say the same thing about our country”. 

The modern Science Museum on the banks of the Clyde

In my short experience, it seems to me that Glasgow has huge potential in the future of Scotland, together with its industrial activity and its three increasingly competitive universities (The University of Glasgow, Strathclyde University and Glasgow Caledonian University) as well as a dynamic transport system essential to create wealth.

The magnificent University of Glasgow 

On balance, honestly I must say that Glasgow’s main asset is, without a doubt, its people, very friendly and welcoming, but to my mind also very different from those in the south of the country. I’ll always have fond memories of Glasgow as a place different from the rest.

Fernando, I've thanked you many times before for your invaluable contribution to our blog and I'll do it once again. A beautifully-written post indeed.

You know, I visited Glasgow with some of our language school students in April 2013, almost 28 years after my first and only visit, and I couldn't believe how the city had changed, much to my surprise. I must admit Scotland's biggest city is like paradise for architecture (both modern and classic) lovers, from the ground-breaking work by the great Charles MacKintosh to the awesome modernistic buildings scattered along the banks of the River Clyde. 

I'm sure I could mention many more places that made an impression on me but I guess the photos above are a good example of Glasgow's charm. However, if you are not satisfied and wish to see some more snaps I took myself (this time on my daughter's compact Canon) during the school trip last year, click on this link.